Four ways to pay for solar exist in 2026: cash, solar loan, solar lease, and Power Purchase Agreement (PPA). The first two give you ownership (and historically gave access to the 30% federal residential tax credit); the second two are third-party-owned structures that require no upfront capital but transfer the asset, the SRECs, and any federal credit benefit to the installer. The relative economics shifted meaningfully in 2026 when the One Big Beautiful Bill Act terminated Section 25D (the residential credit) while keeping Section 48E (the commercial credit, which third-party-owned systems use) intact. For homeowners with capital and tax appetite, cash still wins on lifetime cost. For homeowners without either, leases and PPAs became more attractive than they were under the IRA-era credit structure. This guide walks through each option honestly.
Cash purchase
Pay for the system upfront with savings, home equity, or a HELOC. The system is yours, free and clear, the moment installation completes.
Upfront cost: Full system price. A typical residential system runs $18,000-$30,000 in 2026 depending on size, location, and equipment.
Ongoing cost: Nothing. You own the asset, you own the electricity it produces, and you keep all SREC income in states with SREC markets (Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, New Jersey, etc.).
Federal credit (2026): The 30% Section 25D credit ended December 31, 2025. Cash purchases in 2026 receive $0 in federal tax credits. State credits and rebates continue.
Payback: 8-14 years depending on state, utility, and electricity rate trajectory. The fastest payback markets (Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Hawaii) reach 7-10 years even without the federal credit because high electricity rates and strong state programs make the math work.
Best for: Homeowners with available capital who plan to stay in the home long enough to recapture the investment. Lifetime returns are best with cash because there is no interest cost and no third-party margin.
Trade-offs: Ties up capital. If your alternative use for the capital earns more than the solar payback rate (roughly 7-12% annualized in good markets), the opportunity cost is real. Most homeowners do not have better-yielding alternative uses for $25,000.
Solar loan
A bank, credit union, or solar-specific lender (GoodLeap, Sunlight Financial, Mosaic, Dividend, LightStream) finances the system. You make monthly payments over 10-25 years.
Upfront cost: Typically $0-$2,000.
Monthly payment: $100-$300 depending on system size, interest rate, and term.
Federal credit (2026): Same as cash. Loan-financed purchases are still customer-owned, so Section 25D applies. Since 25D ended December 31, 2025, this means $0 federal credit on 2026 loan purchases.
Best for: Homeowners without the cash for an upfront purchase who still want ownership benefits (asset value at home sale, SREC income, state credits). The math works if the monthly loan payment is less than the monthly electricity bill savings.
Trade-offs: Interest cost over the loan term. A $25,000 loan at 6.99% over 20 years pays roughly $39,000 total. Solar loans also frequently include "dealer fees" baked into the system price (see below), so the loan principal is often higher than the cash price for the same equipment.
The dealer fee issue
Dealer fees are payments solar installers make to loan originators to offer "0% APR" or low-rate financing. The fee runs 15-30% of the loan principal and is built into the system price you see. The result: a $25,000 cash quote often becomes a $33,000 quoted price when paired with a "0% APR" 20-year loan. The customer pays the financing cost through the inflated system price rather than through interest.
The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau has investigated this practice as a deceptive lending pattern. From a homeowner standpoint, the protection is: always request a cash price as a comparison line, even if you plan to finance. If the cash price is materially lower than the loan price, the spread is the dealer fee. You may decide the financing is worth that cost; you should not be unaware that you are paying it.
Solar lease
A third-party owner (Sunrun, Sunnova, ADT Solar, etc.) installs and owns the system on your roof. You pay a fixed monthly lease payment for 20-25 years, typically with a 2.0-2.9% annual escalator.
Upfront cost: $0.
Monthly payment: $80-$200 fixed, escalating yearly.
Federal credit (2026): The leasing company claims the Section 48E commercial credit (still available through 2027-2030 deadlines). They typically pass some of this through as lower monthly payments. You do not personally claim a federal credit because you do not own the system.
Best for: Homeowners without capital, without the tax appetite to use a credit even if 25D still existed, or those who do not want to manage an asset. Leases became materially more competitive in 2026 because they retained federal-credit access while cash and loans lost it.
Trade-offs: No asset value at home sale. No SREC income in SREC states. The 2-3% annual escalator means a lease that starts at $120/month is $150/month after 10 years and $185/month after 20 years. Home sale becomes complicated: the buyer must qualify to assume the lease or the seller must buy out (typically $15,000-$25,000+).
Power Purchase Agreement (PPA)
Mechanically similar to a lease: third-party owner installs and owns the system. The difference is the payment formula. Instead of a fixed monthly lease payment, you pay per kWh of electricity the system produces, at a contracted rate.
Upfront cost: $0.
Per-kWh rate: Typically $0.08-$0.15/kWh, lower than your utility retail rate (which is the source of savings). The rate usually escalates 2-3% per year.
Federal credit (2026): Same as lease. The installer claims Section 48E commercial credit, passed through partially as a lower per-kWh rate.
Best for: Homeowners who want predictable per-kWh pricing rather than a fixed monthly payment. PPAs are particularly common in states with complex net metering or where production varies significantly month-to-month, because the bill follows production rather than running flat.
Trade-offs: Same as lease — no asset value, no SRECs, home sale complications. Additionally, monthly costs are less predictable because production varies (lower in winter, higher in summer). The annualized cost is usually similar to a lease for an equivalent system.
Side-by-side comparison
| Cash | Loan | Lease | PPA | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Upfront cost | Full price | $0-$2,000 | $0 | $0 |
| System ownership | You | You | Installer | Installer |
| Federal credit (2026) | None | None | Passed through | Passed through |
| SREC income | Yes | Yes | No | No |
| Home value impact | Positive | Positive | Negative or neutral | Negative or neutral |
| Maintenance | You | You | Installer | Installer |
| Performance risk | You | You | Installer | Installer |
| Best lifetime cost | Cash | 2nd | 3rd | 3rd |
The "best lifetime cost" row reflects the typical case. There are situations where a lease or PPA wins on lifetime cost because the homeowner moves before recovering a cash investment, or because the homeowner has tax credit access that the installer can monetize more effectively than they can. Consult a qualified tax advisor about how the current federal and state rules apply to your specific situation.
How to choose
Three questions, in order:
1. Do you have $20,000-$30,000 in available capital, and is your alternative use for it earning less than 7-10% annualized? If yes, cash is mathematically the best choice in most markets. If no, move to question 2.
2. Do you have the credit profile for a solar loan at 6-9% APR, and is your monthly electricity bill higher than the projected loan payment? If yes, a loan is the next-best option. Watch for dealer fees: request a cash price comparison line. If no, move to question 3.
3. Is your monthly electricity bill higher than the quoted lease or PPA payment, and do you plan to stay in the home for at least the full contract term? If yes, a lease or PPA can work. Read the contract carefully: escalator rate, buyout terms, transfer process, performance guarantees, and what happens at end of term.
If none of the three options pencil, the right call may be to wait. Solar is not always the right move; for some homeowners in low-rate states with weak state incentives, the math simply does not work in 2026 the way it did under the federal credit. Honest installers will tell you this.
Red flags across all financing types
Regardless of which structure you choose, some patterns signal trouble:
- "Today only" pricing or "limited spots" pressure tactics. Solar prices change slowly. Any urgency tactic is a sales technique, not market reality.
- Inability or refusal to provide a written cash-price comparison. The cash price reveals the dealer fee. Refusing to disclose it is a red flag.
- System sizing far above your actual usage. Some installers oversize systems because their commission is tied to system size. Sizing should match your annual usage plus any planned electrification load.
- Performance guarantees with vague terms. "Guaranteed savings" should specify the calculation method, the comparison baseline, and what happens if the system underperforms.
- Lease or PPA escalator above 3.0%. Industry standard is 2.0-2.9%. Higher escalators front-load savings and back-load cost.
- Loan term substantially longer than the equipment warranty. A 25-year loan on equipment with a 12-year inverter warranty means you may pay for the system longer than it functions reliably.
State-level financing programs
Some states offer financing-specific incentives beyond tax credits:
- New York: NY-Sun program offers reduced-rate solar loans through Renewable Energy Loan products.
- Connecticut: CT Smart-E Loan program at 3.99-6.99% APR.
- California: GoGreen Home program for low-interest energy upgrade loans.
- Massachusetts: Mass Solar Loan (closed to new applications but legacy loans continue).
- Oregon: Energy Trust of Oregon offers $2,500 rebate that effectively reduces financed amount.
- HEEHRA (federal, income-qualified): Heat pump rebates for income-qualified households, useful when financing solar plus heat pump together.
State-level programs change frequently. Verify current availability before counting on any specific incentive in your project budget.
What to do next
Start by getting a system cost estimate that matches your actual usage. Our solar calculator uses satellite roof analysis to size a system for your home. Then compare quotes from pre-screened local installers on a cash-price basis first, even if you plan to finance. Once you have a cash benchmark, ask each installer to model both cash and your preferred financing structure on the same system. The spread between the two reveals the financing cost. Decisions made with full information are better decisions, especially in a 2026 market where the federal credit no longer cushions errors.
Frequently asked questions
What are the four ways to pay for solar?
Cash purchase, solar loan, solar lease, and Power Purchase Agreement (PPA). Cash and loans give you ownership of the system, the asset value at home sale, and access to any state-level credits or SREC income. Leases and PPAs require no upfront capital but transfer ownership (and the federal Section 48E commercial credit and SRECs) to the third-party owner. Each structure has trade-offs that depend on your financial situation, tax appetite, and intended length of homeownership.
Is a solar loan or a lease better in 2026?
It depends on your tax situation and capital availability. Cash and loans gave up access to the 30% federal residential tax credit when Section 25D ended December 31, 2025; leases and PPAs retained access via the commercial Section 48E credit, which the installer typically passes through as lower monthly payments. For high-tax-bracket homeowners with capital available, cash still produces the best lifetime return. For homeowners without the capital or tax appetite, leases became materially more competitive in 2026.
How does a solar lease actually work?
A third-party owner (Sunrun, Sunnova, ADT Solar, etc.) installs and owns the solar system on your roof. You pay a fixed monthly lease payment for 20-25 years, typically with a 2-3% annual escalator. You consume the electricity the system produces, offsetting your utility bill. The installer keeps the federal tax credit, any SRECs, and the asset value. At end of lease, you can extend, buy out the system, or have it removed.
How does a Power Purchase Agreement (PPA) differ from a lease?
A PPA charges you per kWh produced rather than a fixed monthly payment. You agree to buy all the electricity the system generates at a contracted rate (typically $0.08-$0.15/kWh, lower than your utility retail rate). If the system underproduces, your bill is smaller; if it overproduces, your bill is larger. Both leases and PPAs are third-party-owned structures with similar transfer dynamics; the difference is the payment formula.
What is a dealer fee on a solar loan and why does it matter?
Dealer fees are payments solar installers make to loan originators (GoodLeap, Sunlight Financial, Mosaic, etc.) to offer "0% APR" or low-rate financing. The fee is typically 15-30% of the loan principal and is built into the system price you see. A $25,000 cash quote often becomes a $33,000 system price with a 0% loan because the installer adds the dealer fee to the price. The CFPB has investigated this practice as a deceptive lending pattern. Always request a cash price as a comparison line.
Should I buy a home with leased solar?
It depends on the lease terms. Owned solar adds measurable home value; leased solar requires the buyer to assume the lease (must qualify with the leasing company) or the seller to buy out the lease at closing (typically $15,000-$25,000+ depending on years remaining). Leased solar is the single most common reason for home sales falling through in markets with high solar penetration. Always request the full lease contract before making an offer.